|
Barbaresco has deep roots. The Romans arrived, subdued the Celtic people who lived here, cut the forests of oaks sacred to Mars (Martinenga) and planted vines. Maybe it was not even Nebbiolo, but it would soon become so, through genetic mutations and random effects. It was called Nebiùl in 1200, and the original documents show it was cultivated in the same way until the Pinerolese (Pinerolo is 60km to the west) demonstrated that it was the Piedmontese grape par excellence, given that Moscato and Barbera, arch-rivals, would come later, at the turn of 1500 ~ 1600. In the beautiful wooden choir of the Cathedral of Alba (XV century), a visit highly recommended to anyone visiting the city, one of the stalls depicts the ancient village of Barbaresco topped by a bowl filled with grapes: we can not think it was not Nebbiolo. From here within a few years, our vine would begin to give ground to Muscat, more fashionable, and Barbera, more productive, in many areas of Piedmont, " So far we have the Nebbiolo, between legend and reality. The history of facts and certainties begins later in Barbaresco. Here are the most important figures of a continuing saga: 1799: the Austrian army defeated the French in the plain of Genola on the 4th of November. On the 6th of the same month, they set up headquarters in Bra, and General de Melas, commander in chief ordered the town of Barbaresco "to have brought to the base camp in Bra a “carrà” (local truck-borne barrel of 493 litres, ) of excellent Nebbiolo; the document is preserved in the archives of the parish of the municipality and is the oldest written reference to Barbaresco and its wines. 1870: There is a bottle kept in the wine cellar “Cascina Drago” in San Rocco Seno d'Elvio whose handwritten label reads: "Barbaresco 1870: the oldest bottle in which the name of the village was used to identify the wine. (San Rocco was then part of Barbaresco )
1894: a historic date when the Barbaresco "comes of age". Domizio Cavazza, director of the Royal School of Enology in Alba, buys the Castle of Barbaresco, and properties in areas Pora and Ovello, and the same autumn he founds the cooperative “Cantine Sociali di Barbaresco”, gathering around him a dozen owners of local vineyards. He codified the "modern method" for the vinification of Nebbiolo and Barbaresco wine, and launched it on national markets, comparing it to the already famous Barolo. “ …. in you are mitigated the austere qualities of your bigger brother…… you are not measured by goblets as if in deference to your weighty and superficial rivals…….. with you every hour is propitious and every food is good company.” (From Ode to Barbaresco, 1897, D. Cavazza). Domizio Cavazza being defined as the "father of Barbaresco," is taken for granted. We all know his tireless, and in many ways amazing, work in viticulture and enology and welfare of the people of these hills. 1899: the work of the Cooperative “Cantina Sociale” , and other illustrious owners and winemakers in the the village (Giovanni Gaja, Gioachino Deforville, DeGiacomi-etc.) bears the fruit. Teobaldo Calissano, honoured in Rome, presents a bill in Parliament for "the protection of the true wines Barolo and Barbaresco" from fraud and forgery. Noting the surprise of colleagues, he invites them to the actual Langhe hills to taste the wines and experience first hand their excellence . These may seem unremarkable facts, but they record the first attempts of legislative action in the field of wine in Italy, when in France, decades before, Bordeaux had been given its official classification. 1908: October 18, at the invitation of the Mayor, Dr. L. Dogliotti, producers of grapes and the wine “Nebiolo di Barbaresco”, inaugurates in the town hall an Association of Auditors “l'Associazione Sindacale” for the protection of the production and trade of genuine Nebiolo di Barbaresco. A few weeks later, their example is followed by their colleagues in establishing the “Associazione Pro Barolo”, with the same purposes. It is necessary to defend the two precious wines from fraud and increasing attempts to sell the names of the two districts, from wines produced somewhere who knows where . For the same purposes would then be set up in the 30s the first Consortium of Barolo and Barbaresco, while similarly the DOC (1963) and D.O.C.G. (1981) represent further action to protect the origins of Italian wines ( at least, for this they were conceived ). 1912: an unlucky number, because in that year Domizio Cavazza dies prematurely . With him goes the thrust of the ongoing renewal in Barbaresco, which had brought to the attention of the nation this district and its wine, alongside that of its brother Barolo. In the absence of this light, the whole area almost is lost from sight , goes into a lethargy - a bit lazy - from which it would not wake up until half a century later. Then after a only few months the Great War breaks out and there begins a period of difficult years of poverty and where the absence of a , leading light will be felt dramatically. 1922: Another black year , a direct consequence of the preceding . Ten years after the death of its founder, the doors to the Cantina Sociale di Barbaresco close. Vines are still grown on the hills, but with the autocracy imposed by fascism, many vineyards give way to arable fields. The production of the precious wine is increasingly controlled by traders from outside Alba who buy grapes for little money, taking care of their own interests, rather than those of the wine and the area. Good years follow others not so good, as always, but the enthusiasm and the desire to progress that had marked Barbaresco at the turn of the century is lacking. 1926 and 1933, despite the "dark years" in 1926 for the first time the officially delimited area of origin of Barbaresco was defined (Cavazza had already done so in 1898 also naming the best crus!). It was then expanded to include the entire territory of the municipality of Neive in 1933, when Barbaresco, with Barolo was recognized as a "typical wine of excellence". The decades '40 e'50 are difficult years for Italy, which has struggled to recover after World War II. These are the years in which Barolo, with a strong long history, and a bigger area of major powerful producers, continue to be'' the king of wines and the wine of kings ", while the Barbaresco, at the mercy of traders in grapes and middle-men has life harder; born is the nickname "little brother" that will last for the 60s and beyond. 1958: the year of the founding of “Produttori del Barbaresco”, the beginning of the rebirth of the whole area. Created by the work of visionary parish priest, Don Fiorino Marengo, to protect farmers from the uncertainties of the grape market and to continue the work of Cavazza, it brings together nineteen growers (now 63). In the footsteps of the first cooperative Cantina Sociale of 1894, initially “Produttori” specializes in the production of one wine: Barbaresco. 1961: the company Gaja Barbaresco decides to vinify only their own grapes, without having to buy more from third parties. As a result, they give up producing Barolo; Barbaresco then becomes the banner for the company, which three decades later will be the most famous "brand" of Italian wine For Barbaresco that choice was, indirectly, of benefit. Thanks to the quality - and prices - . ....of Barbaresco Gaja nobody now dares to call Barbaresco the "little brother"! 1966: with Presidential Decree of April 23, the Barbaresco wine becomes DOC (controlled denomination of origin) first in Italy with Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Chianti. 1967: following the example of Barolo, Barbaresco’s production and marketing of wine begins to be distinguished by location (the French crus), the names of the great vineyards of Barbaresco (Martinenga, Pora, Rabajà etc.) become identified with quality and vocation for consumers around the world. 1980: with Presidential Decree of 3 October Barbaresco wine becomes DOCG (Denomination of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin). 1997: under the auspices of the Consortium, the four municipalities in the area of origin are to provide the official mapping of the sub-zones of Barbaresco wine production.
|